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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.